The US's newest bikepacking trail is pioneering a whole new way to see Vermont

The Heart of the Greens trail threads through Vermont's stunning Green Mountain wilderness, and is the first part of an ambitious bikepacking adventure that will someday span the state.

My mountain bike tyres thud over pebbles and roots as I whizz through the darkening path. Dusk has fallen over Vermont's Green Mountain National Forest and nearly 400,000 acres of woods extend in every direction. In the distance, I spot pinpricks of light. The campsite is finally near.

In the last fleeting moments of light, I arrive at the Chittenden Brook campground. As I wheel my bike past the welcome sign, I spy a slick, modern hut with pine siding. I'd planned to simply pitch a tent – to this weary bikepacker, the hut's glass windows and wraparound porch seem like the lap of luxury.

Next time, I thought, I'm staying there.

This hut is part of the Heart of the Greens Loop, a 38-mile (61km) bike trail loop and the first completed segment of an ambitious, continuous bikepacking network that, when completed, will stretch 485 miles (780km) and span the entire state.

When to do it: Spring and summer are ideal, but tackle the trail in autumn to appreciate its stunning changing leaves. Most riders can expect to complete the loop in one to three days.

How to get there: Rochester has limited bus service, so it's easiest to drive to the trailhead. Alternatively, park in Pittsfield and start your ride from there.

What to eat: Bring your own provisions. The two villages anchoring the trail have a handful of eateries, like Rochester's farm-to-table Maple Soul and Pittsfield's Clear River Inn & Tavern. Sample dishes made with Vermont's famous maple syrup, like the iconic Creemee ice cream. Pittsfield has two general stores. 

Where to stay: The Spikehorn Yurt and Chittenden Brook Hut are open year-round. Neither hut has running water. Book through Vermont Huts. Reservations are competitive in the summer and on weekends.

Blazing a path for bikepackers

My journey began that morning in Rochester, a picturesque village nestled in Vermont's mountainous White River Valley.

I've driven through it dozens of times without stopping, but since it became the official start and end point of The Heart of the Greens when it opened in 2024, the tiny town has become a magnet for bikepackers. Like me, many are eager to blend the escapism of camping with the thrill of cycling through Vermont's glacial-carved wilderness and explosion of autumnal colours.

The loop is a closed-circuit preview of the forthcoming Velomont, a bikepacking route through Central Vermont with a twist: it will be connected by 30 cleverly spaced off-grid huts allowing tired pedallers to bed down in protected forest shelter.

On track to finish the first 200 miles (321km) within the next 10 years, the project echoes a larger trend in bicycle travel: statewide bikepacking routes are in development in Utah, Massachusetts and along the entire West Coast. 

I grew up near Rochester and have dreamed of such a multi-day bikepacking route. For now, I'm thrilled to take on the Heart of the Greens. Two huts are already placed along the trail, roughly 19 miles (30km) apart: the Chittenden Brook Hut, featuring simple bunks and a self-service kitchen, and Spikehorn Yurt. The yurt doesn't have electricity, and neither accommodation has running water. The route's huts will straddle a curious middle ground between camping and traditional........

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