Like most clever people, I’m not over-fussed about clothing; there have been numerous studies showing that successful types – unless they’re in entertainment, showbiz or fashion itself, obvs – tend to wear the same thing every day. Whenever I hear the phrase ‘I like to express myself through what I wear’ I know we’re dealing with a dim bulb – how about expressing yourself through, I don’t know, your words and your actions? Fran Lebowitz once said ‘If people don’t want to talk to you, what makes you think they want to hear from your clothes?’ and though she was referring specifically to slogan T-shirts, I often think of it when I see people dressed in an ‘interesting’ manner. Anyone who’s spent time around fashion people will easily excuse the amount of cocaine taken in such circles, as the dullness of the conversation verges on the surreal; I knew one boulevardier who, on attending a dinner party, would quickly make a note of the best-dressed women and instruct the hostess to sit him nowhere near them, on principle.

I’ve worn black when I was thin and fat, happy and sad, young and old

Though I may not know much about fashion I certainly know what I like – and that’s black clothes. Before any of you rotters refer rudely to the fleeing of my sylphlike charms, I’ll have you know that this lifelong love affair started when I was a girl of 14 – and size 8. I was a pretentious and precocious little madam, and when I read Chekhov’s Masha in The Seagull say ‘I am in mourning for my life’ when asked why she wears only black, it struck me as such an outrageously brilliant thing to say. For ages I’d wanted to wear only black, but as my mother bought my clothes, this was about as likely as my being allowed to wear a feather boa and nipple tassels to the school disco. There was nothing for it – a lively career of adolescent shoplifting was called for.

Half a century on and I still wear only black – maybe a bit of grey when I’m feeling particularly extrovert. I’ve never been a goth, an emo or an undertaker but I’ve stuck to my chosen colour with the dedication of all three combined. I’ve worn black when I was thin and fat, happy and sad, young and old; I started when I was a tall blonde girl – who probably look better in black than anyone – and I continue with equal enthusiasm now I’m a defiantly dark-haired pensioner. My Jabba the Hutt years are now behind me and I’m a reasonable size 16 64-year-old – and I still can’t get enough of black dresses, leggings and sweaters. One day shortly before Christmas, I turned up at the charity shop where I volunteer wearing an olive green jumper and a red tartan kilt as a nod to the season; not only did my colleagues stare at me in amazement, but one was deputised to have a word with me shortly after to ask me if I was ‘OK’. I howled at the fact that my not wearing black for the first time in the eight years she’d known me indicated that I might be experiencing some sort of trauma and was ‘acting out’ by donning the preferred shades of the season.

According to a recent report in the Daily Mail, I’ll soon be blending in nicely as black is about to come back in a big way: ‘It’s official: black is back. Not the faded “charcoal” black of 2022 but black-black. Inky black. The sort of black that signals sophistication and drama. A full-body black that has been absent from catwalks and front rows and Instagram feeds for years.’ In the shameless sunshine of Los Angeles last month – at Balenciaga’s ready-to-wear fall 2024 show – the likes of Nicole Kidman, Eva Longoria and Kendall Jenner stepped out in ‘black velvet coat dresses, black witchy shoes, black gloves, black shades, black tights, black leggings, black tuxedos, black boots, black bags… you get the idea.’ Add to this the highly unusual sight of Margot Robbie in black Prada, Elizabeth Debicki in black Bottega Veneta and Dua Lipa in black Chanel on recent red carpets.

Coco Chanel started the fashion for black when in 1926 American Vogue published a photograph of her straight-skirted, calf-length little black dress, predicting that it would be ‘a sort of uniform for all women of taste’. But black clothing hasn’t always just been about being chic; in the 16th century it represented wealth among European merchants and aristocrats as it was the most expensive colour to produce dye for, made of imported oak apples, while in the 19th century it became a bohemian thing. And of course, the Victorians made it the colour of mourning – with widows expected to wear it for four years – as well as the preferred colour for maidservant uniforms. As Chanel said ‘Black has it all.’

Though I know it’s a silly conceit, black still feels like rebellion to me; mothers generally don’t like their daughters to wear it, often scolding that it draws all the healthy colour from our complexions – ever heard of make-up? Like red, black is a colour for girls who want to be women and women who like being women – not women who want to be girls. It’s both sexy and seditious, interested in interesting men while giving the finger to all of them who advised you as a youngster to ‘cheer up’ as ‘it’ might ‘never happen’. Dull types who think black ‘boring’ only reveal their own lack of vividness in the personality department; the black dress unites women of substance as disparate as Betty Boop, Audrey Hepburn, Edith Piaf, Princess Diana and Morticia – my own personal favourite would be Anouk Aimee in La Dolce Vita. There’s that famous poem about being an old lady who wears purple – but I prefer to look like an Italian widow than a superannuated Prince impersonator. My feeling about brown clothing is so strong that it feels like a phobia, though even as a purist I reluctantly concede that there was something cool about the late Jean Muir’s choice of black in winter and navy in summer.

Some broads just don’t like it and respect to them; some won’t even wear it to funerals while many won’t wear it in the country. A Facebook friend commented ‘In black I look like a consumptive Victorian mourning the loss of everyone around them and awaiting their own demise.’ Some people give it up because of eczema and some because of pets; ‘I stopped when I got a white cat and started looking like a Bond Villain gone soft.’ I do like colours on others – my friend Kellie-Jay Keen in her shocking pink jumpsuit, the centre of the action at a Terf rally, comes to mind – just not on me. Black looks tough, and it looks expensive – and who wouldn’t prefer that to looking wimpy and cash-strapped, especially in these perilous times? As for me, it transpired that, unlike miserable Masha, I was never in mourning for my life; I was in a state of preparation for it – and I still feel that I am, oddly, though I’m an old lady now. I had an inkling back then that my life would be vivid, original and shocking – and that only black would provide the perfect backdrop to it. I was right.

QOSHE - Once you wear black, you’ll never got back - Julie Burchill
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Once you wear black, you’ll never got back

14 10
29.01.2024

Like most clever people, I’m not over-fussed about clothing; there have been numerous studies showing that successful types – unless they’re in entertainment, showbiz or fashion itself, obvs – tend to wear the same thing every day. Whenever I hear the phrase ‘I like to express myself through what I wear’ I know we’re dealing with a dim bulb – how about expressing yourself through, I don’t know, your words and your actions? Fran Lebowitz once said ‘If people don’t want to talk to you, what makes you think they want to hear from your clothes?’ and though she was referring specifically to slogan T-shirts, I often think of it when I see people dressed in an ‘interesting’ manner. Anyone who’s spent time around fashion people will easily excuse the amount of cocaine taken in such circles, as the dullness of the conversation verges on the surreal; I knew one boulevardier who, on attending a dinner party, would quickly make a note of the best-dressed women and instruct the hostess to sit him nowhere near them, on principle.

I’ve worn black when I was thin and fat, happy and sad, young and old

Though I may not know much about fashion I certainly know what I like – and that’s black clothes. Before any of you rotters refer rudely to the fleeing of my sylphlike charms, I’ll have you know that this lifelong love affair started when I was a girl of 14 – and size 8. I was a pretentious and precocious little madam, and when I read Chekhov’s Masha in The Seagull say ‘I am in mourning for my life’ when asked why she wears only black, it struck me as such an outrageously brilliant thing to say. For ages I’d wanted to wear only black, but as my mother bought my clothes, this was about as likely as my being allowed........

© The Spectator


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