The road map of decadent fine-dining restaurants on Chennai’s bustling streets is interspersed with traditional hole-in-the-wall eateries. These usually cater to two palates — one that delights in South Indian breakfasts and the other that takes pleasure in meaty main courses.

The vibrant city takes great pride in its gastronomy and has enjoyed breathless coverage of its military-era hotels. And history lets us in on their inception.

The story goes that it was during World War II that these military outlets mushroomed in a bid to satisfy the troops’ hunger. Now, neither the emergence of the newer Chettinad restaurants nor the glam of the fine-dining spots can dim the allure that military hotels continue to retain in the city. From politicians to the who’s who of Southern cinema, everyone has stopped here for a bite and has a story to tell.

Here we chronicle the city’s best dosa and thali joints where you can expect a tasty fiesta.

1. Ravi Anna Kadai

The eatery hasn’t ever had a formal name. In fact, it was inconspicuous for the most part. But when locals observed crowds — comprising the elite business class and labourers alike — thronging to the area behind Pondy Bazaar, it needed to be christened. The ‘nei podi dosai’ at this way-side eatery is the first choice of youngsters who flock to it late at night when all other dosa outlets are shut.

In an interview with Conde Nast, Mathangi Kumar, chef and culinary consultant recalled how he finds it tough to stop himself at just one dosa. “As a family, we........

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