What is the name for the grief of losing a restaurant? Surely the Germans have a word for it.

Many Sydneysiders will be keening and lighting candles for Abdul’s, a beloved Lebanese restaurant with threadbare carpets, laminated menus, a man who could roll a kebab for the Olympics and the most delicious food. After being a staple and a landmark for decades, it’s difficult to believe it has really gone.

Abdul’s occupied a key corner shop in a part of Sydney that used to be somewhere to avoid. When you paid for your meal, only the strongest willed could resist picking up a baklava or turkish delight. The hummus was smooth. The service curt. It was perfect.

One of Abdul’s primary charms was that it never changed. You could expect the assuring toss of the bag of Lebanese bread on the table as you sat down. They were among the last businesses to accept payment by........

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