How Nathan Cornwell Is Putting Chiswick on London’s Culinary Map
Nathan Cornwell. Rebecca Dickson
Tourists don’t often venture to Chiswick, a west London neighborhood with a charming communal feel, because it seems too off the beaten path. The area is even avoided by some Londoners, who are also under the misconception that it’s too far removed from the center of town. But those who do visit can be enticed by The Silver Birch, a seasonal fine dining restaurant helmed by chef Nathan Cornwell.
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See all of our newslettersThe restaurant, located on Chiswick’s high street, initially opened in October 2020 under chef Kimberley Hernandez. Cornwell took over the restaurant, founded by Tim Price, in 2024, and has since focused on creating a refined, compelling tasting menu that showcases the best of British ingredients. While the culinary offering and the service have come more easily, the seemingly remote neighborhood has proved tricky.
“Location is huge for a restaurant,” Cornwell says, speaking to Observer in early December. “Not just in terms of accolades, but in terms of footfall. I’m not saying it’s the end-all be-all; it has to also be down to the concept and the food.”
He adds that there is something underrated about a restaurant outside the center of town being good value for its guests. The eight-course tasting menu costs £120, while the shorter set five-course menu is £90. Several snacks and a generous serving of house-made bread and butter accompany both options. “If we were in central London, you’d be paying more of a premium,” Cornwell notes.
The menu highlights British products, like South Down Sika deer venison. Rebecca DicksonThe experience at The Silver Birch certainly stands up well against any of London’s buzzy Michelin-starred restaurants, particularly........© Observer
