Paneer to poutine: Inside the world's local McDonald's
From paneer wraps in India to ski-through burgers in Sweden, photojournalist Gary He's new book McAtlas shows that the world's most global chain is also one of the most local.
"McDonald's has a reputation for cultural imperialism, but that's not 100% true," declares photojournalist Gary He.
In his new book McAtlas, He challenges assumptions about the global fast-food giant, which operates 42,000 stores in more than 100 countries and serves 65 million people a day. While many believe McDonald's has homogenised food culture worldwide, He argues the opposite: that the company has thrived by adapting its menu, architecture and brand to local palates and traditions.
"McDonald's has succeeded because they have brilliantly incorporated local flavours and ingredients – from the McRaclette in Switzerland to egg bulgogi burgers in South Korea and the Halloumi McMuffin in Jordan," He says. "Without adjusting, without localising, without kow-towing to local tastes and local cultures, you can't do business on an international level, no matter how big or powerful you are."
He has been documenting this adaptability for years, starting with casual observations of menu items during his travels. But his real curiosity was sparked by an iftar meal at a McDonald's in Morocco. Searching online for more information, he learned that the chain kept no archives and decided to investigate on his own (McDonald's declined to be involved with his project).
Travelling to 55-plus countries, He spoke with employees and franchisees, observed what locals ordered and hauled bags of food to photograph in his hotel rooms – often sharing it with staff to minimise waste.
Poutine is a 1950s Quebecois invention of fries covered in cheese curds and gravy. After competitor fast food chain Wendy's attempted to have it named Canada's national dish through a "poutition" in 2012, McDonald's put it on menus across the country, even creating an exclusive version: Spicy Buffalo Chicken Poutine. Fun fact: Canada is the only country with its own McDonald's logo – a maple leaf embedded in the Golden Arches.
"If there's an Indian flavour profile or ingredient, they've figured out how to turn it into a McDonald's menu item," says He. Case in point: the Big Spicy McWrap Paneer, built around a staple protein for India's many vegetarians. When McDonald's entered India in 1996, it became the first market where the chain did not serve beef and instead offered a dedicated vegetarian menu. Other India-specific items include the McAloo Tikki, McCurry Pan, Masala Grill Chicken and the Maharaja Mac – a localised replacement for the Big Mac.
The first McDonald's in China opened in Nanyang Commercial Plaza, in what was then the Special Economic Zone of Shenzhen. "When they opened it in 1990, this was the sandbox........
