No Parm, no problem: How modern chefs are veganizing the Caesar salad
Every Fourth of July, Americans fire up the grill and gather to watch fireworks in celebration of the nation's birthday, the anniversary of the signing of the Declaration of Independence. But unbeknownst to many, the day is something of a dual holiday — because July 4 also marks the anniversary of the creation of the illustrious Caesar salad, a mouthwatering dish that splits the difference between side salad and main course, where romaine lettuce, croutons, Parmesan cheese, and of course, Caesar dressing come together in briny, creamy harmony.
Accounts of the salad's birthplace and origin story vary, but a few key details tend to remain the same: The dish was created in Tijuana, Baja California, by the Italian immigrant chef Caesar Cardini, when a group of Americans looking to escape Prohibition-era rules walked into his restaurant, Caesar's Place. On a whim, Cardini put together a salad using odds and ends from around the kitchen: an egg, garlic, lemon, Parmesan cheese, whole romaine lettuce leaves. It is largely agreed that the Caesar was born on or around July 4, 1924 — 100 years ago. By bringing together a number of culinary influences and appetites, the Caesar salad reflects the multiculturalism of the U.S.-Mexico borderland and the ingenuity of immigrant kitchens; perhaps because of this, it has now loomed large in the American cultural imagination for a century.
But for some eaters with dietary restrictions — such as vegans and those who can't tolerate dairy — the anchovies, raw egg yolk (or mayonnaise as a shortcut), and mountains of grated cheese that define the Caesar salad pose a conundrum. And while both small, tinned fish and eggs have a relatively low environmental impact, the carbon footprint of Parmesan cheese may trouble those who strive to eat a planet-friendly diet. The U.S. retail market for plant-based substitutes for animal foods grew from $3.9 billion to $8.1 billion between 2017 and 2023, a period during which Americans' alarm over climate change reached all-time highs.
In response to this demand, restaurant chefs have been developing vegan Caesar salads. Drawing on myriad secret ingredients........
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