Whenever I think of steak tartare, I can’t help but remember a heartbreaking passage in Nigel Slater’s memoir Toast. Slater, working at a French restaurant in a Midlands hotel as a young man, is desperate to try the steak Diane. He books a table there for himself and a date. In a moment of madness, he accidentally orders the steak tartare instead. Expecting a rich, cream-spiked, butter-fried, brandy-flambéed steak, he is first surprised, and then horrified when a waiter begins chopping up raw meat alongside him. ‘I felt cold, then hot, then cold again. The little egg yolks seemed to be looking up at me, laughing. Then everyone was laughing.’ He goes outside and faints.

There’s actually something terribly romantic, intimate even, about steak tartare prepared for two

Perhaps this is not the best introduction to a dish that I’m suggesting you make, but it’s stuck with me. For those who already love steak tartare, it needs no sales pitch: it is the chicest, most delicious way of eating beef fillet, a........

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