Cowboy boots are ubiquitous in Nashville – although not hats. ‘That’s Texas,’ one woman told us earnestly. Locals say, ‘y’all,’ ‘yes, ma’am,’ and make eye contact when they speak to you. Despite the lack of cowboy hats, this is still the South. Welcome to Music City, the capital of country and the gleaming buckle of the Bible Belt. Nashville is home to over 700 churches and numerous evangelical choirs. The Union Gospel Tabernacle, built in the 1890s by a Tennessee businessman, was once the largest church in the city. Now its simply the Ryman Auditorium. After the first world war, the owners found they made more cash booking secular performers.

The audience hated it, Elvis bombed and vowed never to return

For over 30 years, the Ryman was home to the Grand Ole Opry, a radio show broadcast live across America every evening. The Opry had been kicked out of its previous venue thanks to its rowdy crowds; the producers were said to be particularly drawn to the........

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