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A shuttered distillery sparks a soup renaissance in San Francisco

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When the distillery Seven Stills abruptly shuttered, John Lindsey’s world seemed to tilt. For most, it might have been the beginning of a hard stop, but for Lindsey, it marked the start of something entirely unexpected — a reinvention born of resilience, creativity and a touch of serendipity.

“I should have renegotiated my lease earlier during COVID,” Lindsey reflected during a phone call. The pandemic left many businesses scrambling, and his art gallery, the Great Highway, at 3649 Lawton St., faced an uncertain future. Complicating matters further, the neighboring tenant’s sudden closure disrupted his plans to expand, leaving him in a precarious position.

The landlord initially seemed unyielding, and Lindsey prepared to let go of the gallery entirely. Just as the clock was about to run out, a new deal emerged — one that lowered the gallery’s rent to a manageable level. It was far from perfect, but it was enough to keep his dream alive.

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Rather than seeing the challenges as setbacks, Lindsey seized the moment to pivot his focus toward something close to his heart: soup.

Now, with the Outer Sunset in the thick of chilly winter days, Lindsey is working out the kinks of Rusty Ladle, a cozy restaurant specializing in seasonal soups that opened officially in mid-December. Wedged amid Andytown Coffee Roasters and the Great Highway gallery, it’s more than a culinary project, and its journey has been far from ordinary.

Owner John Lindsey (second from left) talks with artist Barry McGee outside Rusty Ladle in San Francisco on Dec. 6, 2024.

Lindsey’s hands-on approach has been vital to Rusty Ladle’s development. “I did all my own permitting. I also did a lot of homework. Hired good people,” he explained. This diligence paid off, particularly when he applied for funding and grants through organizations like the Office of Economic and Workforce Development and SF Shines, a storefront improvement program.

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