Why the most beautiful restaurant job in California keeps losing its chef
Perched on the wind-battered Sonoma County coast, about 100 miles north of San Francisco, Sea Ranch is an architectural wonder and modern-day utopia built on a single hippie premise: to exist in harmony with nature. Nowhere else in California will you find minimalist timber homes so expertly camouflaged that it’s like they sprouted from the very soil itself.
For decades, Bay Area residents have been making the arduous trek up Highway 1, whether they’re renting a home — only 20% of Sea Ranch’s roughly 1,900 homeowners live there full time — or seeking refuge at the Sea Ranch Lodge, an inn built with the same vision. There’s no TV, and high-speed internet arrived only a decade ago. Shorebirds sailing above miles of coastland is the entertainment of choice.
The approximately 60-year-old hotel, which serves as a hub for residents and guests alike, reopened its public spaces in 2021 and its guest rooms in 2023 after a yearslong, down-to-the-studs renovation spearheaded by anonymous investors who purchased the property and land in 2018.
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An exterior view of the Sea Ranch Lodge, located along the northern portion of the Sonoma County coast.
A view of the coast from a guest room at the Sea Ranch Lodge in Sonoma County, Calif.
The Sea Ranch Lodge did not confirm the names to SFGATE, but according to the Wall Street Journal, the buyers included Patrick and John Collison, founders of the payments company Stripe, venture capitalist Robin Chan, and Justin Kan, co-founder of livestreaming service Twitch.
In addition to its 17 stunning guest rooms, the lodge encompasses a general store, a post office, a cafe, a bar and lounge, and a restaurant that feeds both residents and a constant stream of travelers who stumble in for a bite. The lodge also has a robust events business that has nearly doubled in the past year, according to general manager Kristina Jetton.
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What’s perplexing, then, is how difficult it has been for the Sea Ranch Lodge to sustain an executive chef. It’s not the old-fashioned grill of its youth but rather a world-class kitchen with a deep sense of place. One would imagine such a historic destination would have decorated culinary talent clamoring to lead its kitchen, especially with the added benefit of its own regenerative farm down the road.
An assortment of edible greens grow on the Sea Ranch Lodge’s farm.
But since the lodge reopened, at least three executive chefs have come and gone, with consultants filling the gaps in between. Jetton called it “a revolving door” and attributed the turnover at least partly to how remote Sea Ranch is.
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“It’s not easy living out here,” she told SFGATE in a recent interview.
Conceived by architect Al Boeke and built on a 5,200-acre former sheep ranch, the progressive coastal community was born in the early 1960s amid a burgeoning ecological movement to live lightly on the land, away from the trappings of suburbia. The Bay Area architects tasked with building the unincorporated hamlet took painstaking measures to do so with the lightest of touches.
Homes could be built only from vertical redwood or cedar shingles. Power lines had to be hidden. The remote location is smack in the middle of a 70-mile stretch of Highway 1 whose only outlets are remote Highway 128 in the north and Highway 116 through the Russian River in the south.
A server takes the order from........
