Bartender Vicky Tu talks with customers at Burdell in Oakland, Calif., on Sept. 6, 2023.

After announcing two San Francisco restaurants among the best in the U.S. back in April, Food & Wine magazine just revealed its top award — Restaurant of the Year. The honor goes to a restaurant in Oakland.

Burdell, at 4640 Telegraph Ave., is known for its “refined” take on soul food. Chef-owner Geoff Davis’ reimagined classic soul food dishes, such as chicken and waffles made from cornmeal and topped with chicken liver pate and crispy chicken skin, is just one example of how the chef fuses traditional flavors with modern imagination.

This is the third year Food & Wine has awarded a solo restaurant this distinguished award, according to Shara Alexander, a spokesperson for Dotdash Meredith, which publishes Food & Wine. Previously, the magazine named 10 restaurants as the award winners, she said, and San Francisco restaurant........

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