There's little else in the food world that brings about as much social turbulence as the durian. This so-called "king of all fruits" is considered a delicacy across its native Southeast Asia, where durian season is currently in full swing.

Global interest in the pungent food has also grown considerably in recent years. But despite this, the durian continues to be loathed as much as it is lauded. What's behind its polarizing nature?

The international market for durians grew 400% last year. This is mainly due to China, where demand has expanded 12-fold since 2017.

And although heavy rain and heatwaves have resulted in lower yields, the projected growth for 2024 looks promising.

But not everyone is a devotee. The durian often becomes a prickly topic in my conversations with friends in Southeast Asia – with family members clashing over its loud presence in the kitchen.

Durian is even banned in various hotels and public spaces across Southeast Asian countries. In 2018, a load of durian delayed the departure of an Indonesian flight after travelers insisted the stinky cargo be removed.

The fruit's taste and smell are notoriously difficult to pinpoint. One article touting its benefits describes its odor as a rousing medley of "sulfur, sewage, fruit, honey, and roasted and rotting onions".

Regardless of its divisive qualities, the durian has a central role in Southeast Asian cuisine........

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