The Erie Canal was the first infrastructure project in the United States. Built in spite of mockery from Thomas Jefferson, it ran 360 miles and connected the Hudson River to the Great Lakes. At least 10% of the towpath along which mules pulled barges is now a lovely bike trail I rode last week.

To my delight, I discovered it while camping at Green Lakes State Park. The canal side is open, while the other side is tree or shrub-lined, yet allowing occasional views of open fields, marshes, and pastures.

A white crane stared at me, unconcerned, as I rode by, and a fish jumped up and sang the Ginger Bread Man refrain, “Can’t catch me.” A bump on a log turned out to be a turtle sunning itself. A vulture flew out of the trees across the path in front of me, so low I could have hit it. Then it ascended slowly over the canal to join the circle of........

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