As every parent knows, feeding a child at primary school can be daunting. Feeding all 550,000 is very different gravy, but since the 2025 extension of the hot school meals scheme, the State has been committed to doing exactly that.

Ireland joined Finland, Sweden and Estonia in making this a universal entitlement, and others are following suit. Each country understands that growing minds need good food, and this aspiration to provide every child’s school-day nutrition is a quantum step in the pastoral care of our youngest citizens. It demonstrates the power of government to shape an inclusive society and it also has the potential to be transformative within our ailing food system.

Such interventions are not cheap, and the capitation of €3.20 per child totals €286 million this year, dwarfing all other State food contracts.

But the road to hell is paved with good intentions, and since its inception the scheme has drawn criticism from many food advocates, teachers, parents - and not least the children who are expected to eat it 183 days per year. Their beef is that the food is simply not good enough.

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Last week, Minister Dara Calleary, whose Department of Social Protection administers the scheme, published a nutrition review and a national survey conducted by Ipsos. He has announced refinements including more cold options, standardised menu........

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