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A certain type of fine dining has had its day. I can’t say I’ll miss it

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13.07.2019

A long, long time ago, when I was a young editor working on the learned journal of one of our Royal Colleges, the boss – a senior member of the College committee – decided to reward the journal team after we’d had a particularly good year.

Dur-e-Dara and Stephanie Alexander outside Stephanie's restaurant, back in the day.Credit:Joe Armao

We’d finished top of the readership survey again and were enjoying a surge in advertising for angiotensin receptor blockers, amoxycillin and anxiolytics (this was at a time when anxiety was a diagnosed medical condition rather than a generalised social pathology).

So he booked us all lunch at Stephanie’s, one of Melbourne’s great 1980s restaurants.

As Good Food editor Roslyn Grundy remembers,........

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