As mad as it gets

Rod Liddle, associate editor of The Spectator, has died aged 66. This is one of the first columns he wrote for the magazine on March 9, 2002.

It’s always a life-affirming moment – for me, at least. The aeroplane has groaned and wheezed its way up, up, above the city and – improbably, to my mind – established a sort of equilibrium with the ethereal new world around it. The engines begin to sound more at ease. Perhaps I won’t die this time, after all.

And then, the seatbelt signs flick off, and from somewhere far down the aisle, towards first class, there comes the chinkety-chink-chink of the trolley. So, I am not going to die – and, better still, I’m going to be given a nice drink.

This rather lovely sequence of events occurred, in exactly the same way as they usually do, on a recent flight from Kampala to Heathrow. My companion on the trip was the editor of this publication who, during take-off, as I sweated with terror, slouched in his seat, oblivious to notions of mortality, reading a book about how the British Empire was unreservedly terrific.

Eventually, the trolley reached us. We were given a pleasantly chilled Pouilly Fume and – here’s where the sense of euphoria and wellbeing dissolved in a microsecond – a “snack.”

Let me tell you about this despicable confection. Its basic ingredient was a reconstituted, premasticated cereal that had been sprayed with, or immersed in, the following: disodium guanylate, tocopherol, sorbital, glucona-delta-lactonc, monosodium glutamate, sucrose esters of fatty acids, hydrogenated goatshit. Sure, I made up the last one, and perhaps it is hypocritical of........

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