Taking on the Cornish culinary mafia: Four Boys reviewed |
‘Expect David Cameron to be there.’ This was the main thing I had been told before I went to Four Boys in Rock, Cornwall. As I arrive, it makes sense. This is a Cameron-y sort of place and not just because every man in here looks a bit like David Cameron.
Why? Well, Cameron’s big idea as leader of the Conservative party was to modernise it. ‘We’ll get elected if we hug hoodies and manage to not pull a face when we see an avocado.’ Four Boys, with its awareness of fashion, is doing something similar. I notice something at the top of the menu when I sit down. ‘We recommend sharing our food.’
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What? Small plates?! Sharing?! I’m trying to get away from east London! Yet all has been done judiciously. Nine out of ten items on the menu sound as though they haven’t come from further than ten........