A full spread of dishes at Four Kings in downtown San Francisco.

The accolades keep pouring in for a new-ish restaurant in San Francisco’s Chinatown. Four Kings, a nostalgia-inspired Cantonese spot known for mapo spaghetti and steak chow fun, has been named Esquire’s restaurant of the year.

Open since March, the restaurant, at 710 Commercial St., has had a banner year. The New York Times placed Four Kings on its annual list of the 50 best restaurants; Bon Appetit named it one of the 20 best new restaurants; and OpenTable dubbed it a top-100 restaurant. Tuesday, Eater SF also named Four Kings its restaurant of the year.

“You can feel the electric energy emanating from their shoebox space,” wrote Esquire contributing editor Omar Mamoon. “Cantopop ballads blast from the........

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