Since Ikoyi opened in 2017, the West African-inspired restaurant has become a force to be reckoned with in London’s culinary scene. Founded by Iré Hassan-Odukale and chef Jeremy Chan, Ikoyi earned its first Michelin star in 2018 and its second in 2022. It has been so successful that in 2022, the restaurant relocated from St. James to a larger space at 180 Strand. Ikoyi welcomes guests into the sleek, contemporary space for refined tasting menus served for both lunch and dinner on certain weekdays. It’s notably not open on the weekends, an intentional choice made to ensure the staff can have a proper work-life balance. The restaurant is also surprisingly less formal than many of its contemporaries.
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“The ethos in the restaurant is caring about the guests a lot and caring about all of the details in the experience,” Chan tells Observer. “I see a guest coming to eat here as almost like a ritual. They’ve chosen to come here, so we try to make it as smooth and as easy as possible, without pontificating about who we are. I want it to be relaxed, comfortable and delicious. I really don’t like tasting menus or long fine dining experiences where you’ve submitted to the narrative of the restaurant. The goal is to make an amazing hospitality experience that isn’t too overwrought.”
Ikoyi, which remains a coveted reservation for both locals and visitors to London, isn’t too stuck in its ways. Chan and his chefs are constantly developing the menu, and recently partnered with Uber Eats on a coursed menu that could be delivered at home. He’s also preparing to take Ikoyi on the road to California in July 2024. Observer recently spoke with Chan on how he defines Ikoyi’s success, what fine dining means to him and what guests can expect from the pop-up in July.
Jeremy Chan: Mixed feelings. On one hand, the idea of being recognized as one of the best restaurants in the world is really amazing, but it’s not something I planned for and it’s not something I think about in my daily life. So it’s pretty cool. And being there at the event [in Las Vegas] and being around these chefs from around the world is really special. On the other hand, I feel like the restaurant is constantly getting better and more interesting and more unique, and it’s doing so under........