Over the years, I’ve consumed heaps of neat, “naturalistic” dramas with messages served on a platter. I’ve also sampled countless experimental works meant to flummox the taste buds. Whichever I’m munching, the question (per my job) must always be, “What is this play about?” Imagine my surprise when, about a third of the way through Abe Koogler’s Staff Meal, someone in the audience stood and asked exactly that, in a tone of angry indignation. She was fed up with surreal touches (green grapes standing in for gourmet cuisine) and oddball speeches (one about a past life aboard a ship like the Titanic). “Is this a play about restaurants or the people who work there?” she fumed. “I’d happily watch a play about that—if it was different.”
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There I part company with the lady (Stephanie........