A debate has recently arisen in India over the food served at official banquets for visiting foreign dignitaries. The controversy centres on the growing tendency to offer strictly vegetarian meals, often featuring millets. Some critics argue that foreign leaders accustomed to hearty multi-course meals (and alcohol) may find such minimalist vegetarian fare unsatisfying. Ultimately, I suppose, culinary diplomacy should reflect the host’s choice, but also consider the guest’s palate, keeping in mind the ancient dictum, Atithi Devo Bhava, a guest is akin to the divine.

In my long experience as a diplomat, I have some interesting reminiscences of banquets and our leaders.

In 1982, Prime Minister (PM) Indira Gandhi made an official visit to Romania, where I was posted as a young officer. Romanian president, Nicolai Ceausescu, a repressive dictator, hosted the usual banquet in her honour. After the mandatory toasts by the two leaders, Ceausescu noticed that Mrs Gandhi was not eating. She told him that since it was a Tuesday, she was fasting. Suddenly,........

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