Birdwatching in Argentina: Mar de Ansenuza |
Mar de Ansenuza (often called Laguna Mar Chiquita) sits at the heart of the Ansenuza wetland complex and the Ansenuza National Park & Reserve in the northeast of the province of Córdoba. It’s the largest salt lake in Argentina and feels less like a lake than a small inland sea. For birders, Mar Chiquita is not a single body of water; it’s part of a huge wetland system that includes the Bañados del Río Dulce and various marshes, mudflats and areas of grassland and dry woodland.
The wider wetland complex is a Ramsar site, recognised internationally for its wetland value. Much of the area is now protected as the Parque Nacional y Reserva Nacional Ansenuza. It was declared a National Park in 2022, partly as a result of a campaign organised by UK’s 2018 Birdfair. The Park was founded with the additional help of BirdLife International and Aves Argentinas, with the £322,000 raised by Birdfair used as startup money.
And that protection has paid off. Official tourism sources claim 250+ bird species and the place is famous for sheer numbers, from flamingos to migratory shorebirds arriving from far north.
Most prominent are the flamingos. Mar Chiquita hosts three species (Chilean (Phoenicopterus chilensis) all year-round, Andean (Phoenicoparrus andinus) and James’s flamingos (Phoenicoparrus jamesi) as seasonal visitors). Counts for Chilean Flamingos alone can run into the hundreds of thousands.
Then there are the shorebirds. In many austral summers, Laguna Mar Chiquita is described as one of the most important non-breeding sites for Wilson’s Phalarope, with ≥400,000 recorded simultaneously in some years: the kind of spectacle that makes even seasoned birders go quiet.
Other wildlife in the area include the Puma (Puma concolor), the Maned Wolf (Chrysocyon brachyurus), Geoffroy’s Cat (Leopardus geoffroyi), Jaguarundi (Herpailurus yagouaroundi), Coypu (Myocastor coypus), Capybara (Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris); South American Grey Fox (Lycalopex gymnocercus), Large Hairy Armadillo (Chaetophractus villosus), Southern Tamandua Anteater (Tamandua tetradactyla); Neotropical River Otter (Lontra longicaudis), Tuco-tucos (Ctenomyidae family), Lutrine opossums, (Lutreolina crassicaudata) and occasionally, invading wild boar (Sus scrofa). A word of warning: with the exception of the docile Capybara and the curious Grey Fox none of these will be easily seen without special attention.
If you have time on your hands you might also like to visit the abandoned, historic and allegedly haunted Gran Hotel Viena in Miramar, once one of the most luxurious retreats for upper middle-class Argentines.
Most visitors base themselves in Miramar de Ansenuza, on the lake’s southern shore. From Córdoba city it’s about 200 km, typically via RN 19 and provincial routes (commonly RP 10 / RP 17 and connecting roads). Some approaches may include short gravel sections depending on your exact route and conditions but it’s not hard to reach in a regular vehicle.
If you’re flying, your closest airports are Córdoba (COR) at 200 km, or Sauce Viejo (SFN) at 400 km. The latter is near Santa Fé. From either of these you can hire a car or seek ground transport to Miramar.
Once you’re in town, birding is straightforward: you can work the shoreline, nearby marshes and access points, and then range out by road to different sectors. Because the park is large and still developing visitor infrastructure in places, it’s sensible to check the national park access info before you set off for a specific trail or portal.
Why You Should Visit Mar Chiquita / Ansenuza
A genuinely major wetland: the Mar Chiquita–Río Dulce system is internationally recognised (Ramsar) and now has national-level protection as Ansenuza National Park.
Flamingos on a huge scale: three South American species can be seen here, and Chilean Flamingos can exceed 300,000 individuals.
A shorebird (wader) paradise: the Western Hemisphere Shorebird Reserve Network notes that nearly two-thirds of Argentina’s recorded shorebird species have been found here.
You can enjoy serious birding and wildlife watching without multi-day treks or technical logistics.
Wilson’s Phalarope spectacle: the lake is repeatedly highlighted as a top non-breeding site, with extremely large congregations in many summers.
Variety in a compact trip: saline lake, mudflats, reedbeds and dry woodland sit close enough together that you can rack up species quickly, even on a long weekend.
A small selection of birds you might see
(This is not a checklist — just a flavour. What you see will vary with water level, season, and wind.)
Chilean Flamingo (Phoenicopterus chilensis) – the classic pink mass-feeding bird of Ansenuza.
Andean Flamingo (Phoenicoparrus andinus) – present seasonally, but you need to look carefully.
James’s akaPuna Flamingo (Phoenicoparrus jamesi) – another seasonal visitor that can turn up alongside Andean.
Black-necked Swan (Cygnus melancoryphus) – elegant and surprisingly conspicuous on calmer waters.
Coscoroba Swan (Coscoroba coscoroba) – the smaller, bright-white swan of South American wetlands.
Wilson’s Phalarope (Phalaropus tricolor) – sometimes in staggering numbers on the salt shallows.
White-rumped Sandpiper (Calidris fuscicollis) – a regular migrant in the mix.
Pectoral Sandpiper (Calidris melanotos) – another North American migrant you may pick out if you scan carefully.
Semipalmated Plover (Charadrius semipalmatus) – compact plover of shores and mudflats.
Black-necked Stilt (Himantopus mexicanus) – long-legged, high-contrast, and can be seen very near.
Greater Rhea (Rhea americana) – often spotted on open country drives.
Elegant Crested-Tinamou (Eudromia elegans) – frequently bursts from cover at the side of the road
Rufus Hornero (Furnarius rufus) – ubiquitous brick-oven nest builder, once you spot one you’ll see them everywhere.
Scarlet-headed Blackbird (Amblyramphus holosericeus) – jewel in the reedbeds: black body, red head, unforgettable.
Yellow Cardinal (Gubernatrix cristata) – iconic [and endangered] grassland/woodland edge species to look for, hard to find so best seen with local guidance.
Snail Kite (Rostrhamus sociabilis) – specialises in wetland prey; watch for low, buoyant hunting flights.
Harris’s Hawk (Parabuteo unicinctus) – broad-winged, often perched and ever watchful.
Variable Hawk (Geranoaetus polyosoma) – riding thermals over open ground.
Chimango Caracara (Daptrius chimango) – everyday opportunist, easy to spot and usually the first raptor you tick.
Aplomado Falcon (Falco femoralis) – sleek, fast, and a real prize if you catch it hunting.
Mar Chiquita/Ansenuza is one of those places where birders go less for single species and more for ecosystems: salt, wind, shallow water, reeds and migration, all happening at once. The pay-off is the scale — flamingos in their thousands, shorebirds in constant motion, and raptors working the edges.
If you want world-class Argentina birding that’s doable in a weekend, Miramar de Ansenuza is a superb base: easy logistics, big skies, and a wetland that can genuinely surprise you every time you step out to scan the lake.