November is the perfect season for Shanghai hairy crabs, prized for their creamy roes. Traditionally grown in freshwater in the Yangtze Delta, these palm-sized crustaceans are sought after in Hong Kong, too. One can indulge in a crab feast tasting menu at a fine restaurant for HK$2,280 ($292) per person, or choose to buy live ones from specialty shops and prepare them — often steamed — at home. Last weekend, I bought two pairs for HK$1,000 at an establishment near the Central business district.

Many would say that’s too expensive, but what I paid for was convenience. This year, Hong Kong residents have been flocking to the mainland for cheap hairy crabs, taking advantage of the border reopening and a deflationary mindset that is enveloping China, as the hoped-for resurgence from years of Covid restrictions has turned into one of 2023's greatest disappointments.